Knitted Fabrics: A Comprehensive Guide | Identification Guide

What Are Knitted Fabrics?
Knitted fabrics are formed by interlocking loops of yarn. Highly elastic, breathable, and soft, they are commonly found in close-fitting garments such as T-shirts and underwear. They fall into two major categories: Weft Knitting (woven horizontally; prone to unraveling) and Warp Knitting (woven vertically; dense and resistant to snagging). Mastering these two categories is your fast track to getting started!

 Popular Members of the Knitted Fabric Family
1. Jersey Fabric (Single Jersey)
Features a smooth surface with distinct differences in texture between the front and back sides. It is moisture-wicking and breathable, though prone to curling at the edges. A top choice for summer T-shirts, it feels lightweight and soft against the skin; remember to hem the edges to prevent unraveling!
2. Piqué Fabric (Mesh Piqué)
The "King of Breathability," featuring a textured, raised surface! Available in various gauges (e.g., 4-gauge, 6-gauge, 8-gauge), it utilizes a loop-and-tuck stitch structure and is commonly found in sportswear. Twill Piqué offers superior stretch resistance, making it ideal for polo shirts.
3. French Terry (Loopback Fabric)
Features distinctive "fish-scale" loops on the reverse side. It has a high fabric weight (ranging from 190 to 350 g/m²-190–250g is suitable for lightweight spring wear; 260–320g is the standard thickness for spring/autumn; and 330–350g is extra-thick for outer-layer autumn/winter wear) and offers excellent thermal insulation. When brushed, the loops transform into fleece; this fabric is the staple for autumn/winter sweatshirts and loungewear!
4. Ponte Fabric (Ponte di Roma)
Woven on a double-knit circular machine, it offers balanced elasticity in both horizontal and vertical directions and features subtle, irregular horizontal striations. Commonly used for close-fitting garments, it is soft and sweat-absorbent, though its horizontal elasticity is slightly less pronounced than that of standard double-knit fabrics.
5. Rib Fabric
1x1 Rib features a loose structure with high elasticity, while 2x2 Rib presents a more (3D/textured) appearance. It is specifically used for neckbands and cuffs; it resists deformation and shows no significant difference between the front and back sides.
6. Interlock Fabric (Double-Knit)
Features a double-rib structure, making it thick and warm. It is frequently used for baby rompers and leggings. It offers moderate elasticity and possesses a crisper, more structured drape than standard Jersey fabric.

 3 Quick Tips to Distinguish Knitted Fabrics
Check the Texture
Jersey fabric is flat and smooth with no raised bumps; Piqué fabric resembles a honeycomb pattern; Ponte fabric features subtle, barely-visible horizontal striations. To identify French terry fabric, check the reverse side for visible loops; for rib-knit fabric, look for distinct vertical ridges and grooves.
Stretch Test
Horizontal Stretch: Jersey > Piqué > Ponte Roma. Rib-knit fabric offers excellent elasticity in both the horizontal and vertical directions. French terry fabric, due to the resistance from its loops, exhibits weaker elasticity.
Tactile Feel
Jersey feels smooth-reminiscent of silk-though it possesses a subtle, dry grip. Piqué feels crisp and firm with a granular texture (mimicking the sensation of a cat's barbed tongue). Ponte Roma is soft yet resilient, feeling much like kneading an earlobe. French terry feels thick, fluffy, and features a tactile surface with soft, raised loops.

Knits vs. Wovens: The Ultimate Comparison
Elasticity: Knits > Wovens (Think of a crisp shirt vs. a soft T-shirt).
Breathability: The loops in knitted fabrics create small gaps, making them cooler for summer wear.
Durability/Abrasion Resistance: Wovens win out (Consider the longevity of a suit jacket).
Cutting/Finishing: Knits tend to unravel easily and require edge binding; wovens can be cut directly without immediate finishing.

Fabric Pitfall Avoidance Tips
For high elasticity, choose a spandex blend (e.g., jersey with 5% spandex).
To prevent pilling, select fabrics with a dense structure (e.g., Double Piqué > Single Piqué).
Regarding shrinkage rates: It all depends on the finishing process! Resin finishing can reduce shrinkage to around 7%. Pre-shrinking treatments-which involve steam-moisturizing followed by lengthwise compression-can stabilize the shrinkage rate of pure cotton fabrics to within 5%.